Choosing Your Gecko’s Habitat

There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing the cage. Size is the biggest factor. 

For adult geckos, you would want a habitat that is at least 20 gallons. Juveniles can have smaller tanks. We would suggest getting at least ten gallons for a young lizard. Of course, these are estimates for a single gecko. If you’re going to have more than one, you’ll need a larger cage.

It’s best to get a habitat with glass sides.You may see habitats with open tops. These can be quite attractive, but they aren’t going to be right for every household. If you have other pets and/or children, you’ll want to get something with a screened lid. While leopard geckos aren’t able to climb, as some other lizards can, this will protect them from outside dangers … such as your cat.  

As far as shape goes, Choose a tank that offers more horizontal than vertical space for a leopard gecko. Make sure the cover closes tightly, especially if you have cats.

(A note on this: geckos do vary in size. We’re focusing on the leopard gecko in this article, so if you are getting  a different type, you’ll want to do some research on the specific type of lizard you want. For instance, if you’re getting an arboreal gecko, such as a crested or tokay gecko, choose something tall enough to allow them some climbing room, so you can put small trees in there for them.)

Leopard Gecko Habitat Lighting

Most reptiles require UVB lighting to thrive. Some reptiles can develop MBD (metabolic bone disease), a painful and sometimes fatal condition, if they don’t get enough UVB. That isn’t the case with leopard geckos. In fact, this is one area where leopard geckos are a bit different than other reptiles. These guys are crepuscular. That means they are most active at dusk and dawn, and spend most of the daytime hours sleeping. Some studies do show that geckos will benefit from getting some UVB light, but they don’t require as much as many other reptiles do. It also isn’t as critical to them. That said, they do need proper lighting. For a leopard gecko, you can get a simple 12 watt bulb. You’ll want to put this on a timer, so it will imitate national light cycles. 

Choosing Substrate For Your Gecko

Choosing the right substrate is also very important. These are generally broken into two categories. Solid substrates would include things like reptile carpet, butcher paper, paper towels, or newsprint, while loose substrates include substrate products, such as quartz sand, excavator clay, and desert soils.

There are pros and cons to each type. Solid substrates are easier to keep clean. They also don’t weigh as much, and usually cost less. However, they don’t give your pet a chance to dig, and may not offer much traction. They can also be uncomfortable. Just like people, reptiles may get sore from standing on a hard surface! Loose substrates do allow for digging, and may be easier to keep clean. However, they cost more, and also weigh more. There’s also a larger risk of impaction, parasitic load, and dehydration, particularly if conditions and other care needs are not up to par.

We wouldn’t suggest using sand, especially on juvenile geckos. They may accidentally ingest it. This can cause intestinal blockages, which are both very painful and very dangerous. You can, however, use a mix of sand and soil. 

Ask your vet for more information on substrate. 

What Temperatures Do Geckos Need? 

The areas leopard geckos naturally inhabit are quite a bit cooler than the tropical and subtropical regions many reptiles hail from. Unlike many of their cousins, leopard geckos don’t enjoy those blistering hot temperatures. However, it is important to keep the cage within a specific range. Generally, this should be about 23.89 to 26.67 C on the cool side, and 27 to 29 on the warm side. You can drop the temps a bit at night. You’ll also need to offer a basking spot. This should be hotter: about 32 to 35 C. Under tank heaters or heating pads are a good bet. Don’t use heating rocks: geckos often get burned on them.

Ask your Mississauga, ON vet for specific advice on this, including tips on getting heating equipment. 

What Sort Of Hides Do Geckos Need?

Everyone needs a place to go and unwind and get away from things. That is true for reptiles as well! You’ll need to provide a sort of hide. Geckos often hide in cracks and crevasses in the wild, so they have a strong instinct to want to retreat. Your pet’s cage should offer something that imitates this.

You can find great hides in pet stores, but you can also get a bit creative and use a plant pot, a plastic container with a ‘door’ cut into it, or something similar.

You’ll need to get two. One should be on the end with the heat lamp, while the other can be on the opposite side. One of these will need to be set up in a way that will help your lizard shed. You can do that by adding wet paper towels, moss, or other substances.

What Do Geckos Need For Accessories?

Geckos don’t exactly play, so you won’t need to add any toys. They do, however, need dinnerware. That would include things like a small water bowl, and a small dish for calcium powder.

Making A Fun Environment For Geckos

Like any other pets, geckos need stimulation and enrichment. For reptiles, this basically entails climbing and exploring things. You can add safe plants, climbing rocks, logs, and other accessories. Small statues or even pieces of art can also add a fun touch. These things can also make the habitat look attractive and interesting!

What Else Should I Consider When Getting A Gecko? 

There are more than 1500 kinds of geckos. Only a few of these make good pets, though. Though the leopard gecko is at the top of the list, there are other options, such as the Crested gecko, and African Fat-Tailed gecko. If you opt for a different type, you’ll want to look up specific care instructions. 

Before purchasing a leopard gecko, or any other reptile, do plenty of research. You’ll want to consider things like size, habitat needs, temperament, lifespan, and difficulty of care. Diet is also a big one. Most of these guys eat living insects, such as crickets, Dubai roaches, and waxworms. This of course means you’ll need to be comfortable with purchasing, storing, and handling the bugs. 

Make An Appointment At Our Mississauga, ON Animal Clinic

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What Should I Put In A Pet First Aid Kit?

If your pet is ever seriously hurt, then you would of course need to seek immediate veterinary care. However, you may need to perform some first aid yourself before your pet can safely be transported. That’s why we always recommend having a pet first aid kit. 

You can buy ones made just for Fido and Fluffy, but you can also make your own. You may want to start with a kit made specifically for humans, and then add some pet-specific items to it. Some of the things you would want to include are adhesive tape, antiseptic spray or lotion, cotton swabs, ice packs, cotton balls, sterile saline solution, tweezers, gauze pads, and blunt-end scissors. We would also suggest including hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, a plastic eyedropper, a syringe, and splints. Other things you may want to add include a foil emergency blanket, flashlight, tick puller, ear-cleaning solution, treats, towels, a leash and collar, styptic powder, and Pedialyte or something similar.

Beyond that, you would want to customize the kit depending on what type of pet you have. For a dog, we would suggest including a muzzle. This is for your safety and the safety of anyone treating Fido. Even the sweetest dog can bite if they are hurt! For reptiles, you may want to include a condom: this is a good way to wrap an injured tail. 

It’s actually not a bad idea to get two kits, and keep one in your car. If you like to take your dog out and about, this is a good thing to have on hand. 

Ask your vet for specific advice. 

Have Pet First Aid Information Ready

You can have a top-of-the-line first aid kit, but it won’t do any good if you don’t know what to do. That’s why we would suggest downloading some pet first-aid apps. The Red Cross has a great one, which is available on the App Store here or at Google Play here.

You don’t have to rely solely on an app. In fact, it’s probably best not to. It won’t do any good if your phone is out of juice or far away! You can also buy or print some pet first-aid brochures. Keep these in the kit.

Those brochures aren’t the only paperwork you would want to put in. We would also suggest including copies of your pet’s medical records, as well as key contact information for your vet, the nearest emergency clinic, and a Pet Poison Helpline. Save these to your phone contacts as well.

Keep The Kit Current

While many medical supplies, such as bandages, will last for years, others expire fairly quickly. Go through the kit every six months or so. Replace any items that are damaged or expired.

Store It With A Travel Carrier

Every second counts in an emergency. That kit won’t do you any good if you have to rummage for it in the garage or attic. Keep it with your pet’s travel carrier. We would also suggest keeping it with a travel/emergency bag. This should contain things you would need in case of an evacuation, such as food, treats, a leash and collar, towels, bedding, dishes, bottled water, wipes, and some comfort toys.

Having everything together can not only help you save precious time in an emergency, it’s also going to be a great thing to have on hand for travel or camping. Just grab and go!  

Take A Pet First-AId Class

We’re always big advocates for personal growth. No matter where you are in life, there are always new things to learn and new ways to improve yourself. Why not take a pet first aid class? Remember, this may not only help your pet: it could come in handy at any time or place. The Canadian Red Cross has one available online for just $30.

Remember That Smart Home Device

If you have an Alexa, a Siri, or any similar device, keep this in mind during an emergency. While we can’t vouch for the accuracy of any first aid advice it offers, it may, for example, help you call your vet or locate an urgent care vet. You could ask it to search for something like ‘urgent care vet near me.’ 

Take Precautions To Prevent Mishaps

With pet care, an ounce of prevention is worth several pounds of cure. There is of course no way to completely safeguard your pet against every possible option, but there are things you can do to reduce the chances of an accident happening. The best thing you can do is take basic precautions to prevent injuries in the first place. 

There’s a lot of ground to cover there. Petproofing is a big one. Many pets are admitted to the ER for ingesting dangerous items or substances. It’s also important to keep pets securely contained in comfortable, appropriate areas. If you have a kitty, we would strongly recommend keeping Fluffy safe and sound indoors. Do some research, and ask your Meadowvale, ON vet for more specific information. 

Know What The Warning Signs Are

Pets can’t drive themselves to the clinic or call an ambulance, and they can’t tell us exactly how they feel. However, there are definitely red flags that would indicate a serious issue. While some vary a bit from pet to pet, there are a few that apply to almost any animal. 

Those include the following: 

• Restlessness
• Staggering
• Stumbling
• Lethargy
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Shortness Of Breath
• Difficulty Urinating Or Defecating 
• Swollen Abdomen
• Bloody Diarrhea
• Known Ingestion Of Poison/Toxic Plants or Foods
• Difficulty Breathing
• Choking
• Seizures
• Bleeding
• Eye Injury
• Lameness 
• Unconsciousness
• Broken Bones
• Fractures
• Obvious Signs Of Pain
• Inability To Deliver Puppies Or Kittens
• Sudden Blindness
• Loss Of Consciousness
• Discolored Gums

Behavioral changes are also a warning sign. That may include things like a quiet pet becoming vocal, or a vocal pet becoming quiet. Anything that is unusual for your pet should be taken seriously.

You’ll also want to look up symptoms that would apply to your specific pet. For instance, feather pulling can be indicative of an issue in birds, while tooth grinding is a warning sign in many pocket pets. 

Keep in mind that some things may indicate a need for veterinary care, but don’t necessarily warrant an ER trip. That would include things like unkempt fur in kitties, and changes in appetite. If in doubt, call the clinic and explain what’s going on. 

Make An Appointment At Our Meadowvale, ON Veterinary Care Clinic

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Provide A Play Zone

One of the first rules of getting a bunny? You’ll need to petproof absolutely everything Floppy can reach. Rabbits will chew on anything and everything!

You don’t necessarily have to bunnyproof your entire house. You can choose a few rooms to give your pet access to, and petproof those.

Here are a few things you’d want to address:

Baseboards: Baseboards happen to be right at bunny level and are quite tempting for them to chew on.

Table Legs: Anything that is made of wood and within easy reach of those cute paws is a prime target. You can get protective casings table legs. Taste deterrents will work, but you will need to reapply regularly.

Small Or Sharp Items: The complete list of things that would fit into these categories would be far too long to put here, but some examples include pens, pencils, jewelry, beads, buttons, craft kit pieces, safety pins, thumb tacks, thumb drives, coins, and small toys.

Personal Items: Things like shoes, purses, wallets, and even cell phones are all fair game for your adorable chewing machine. Keep these things in secure spots, well out of paws’ reach.

Plants: Many rabbits love to nibble on plants. If you like, you can set out some herbs at floor level for your cute pet to gnaw on. You’ll just need to make sure to choose only safe ones. Some of the safe plants would include daisies, dandelions, mint, basil, marigolds, cilantro, spider plants, and orchids. Just keep in mind that these plants are not going to be safe from your rabbit. If you want your plant to live, keep them in high spots, where your pet can’t reach.

Here are some of the more toxic plants:

• Snowdrops
• Hyacinths
• Bluebells
• Crocuses
• Daffodils
• Buttercups
• Foxgloves
• Primrose
• Delphiniums/Larkspur
• Columbine (Aquilegia) Hellebore
• Comfrey
• Poppy
• Periwinkle
• Monkshood
• Nightshade
• Ivy
• Privet
• Holly
• Yew
• Ragwort

Anything with a bulb should also be considered toxic. That includes things like daffodils, tulips, garlic, and onions. Ask your Meadowvale, ON vet for more information.

Spaces: Bunnies are both small and curious, and they have a tendency to want to explore any kind of nooks, crannies, or crevasses. You may not notice the pencil that rolled under the couch, but Floppy certainly will! Your best bet is to seal off any openings behind and beneath furniture and cabinets. Under-bed storage containers can work for this, though choose ones your bunny can’t chew through.

Wires, Cords, Ropes: These pose a triple threat. Not only are cords and ropes choking and strangulation hazards, they can cause very dangerous internal injuries if ingested. Needless to say, chewing on a live wire would also be extremely dangerous!

Doors: As far as Floppy is concerned, that closet door is a convenient snack. You can get protective coverings, such as a thick mat or sheet of hard plastic. Just make sure to choose something your pet’s teeth won’t get through. It’s also best to keep closets shut. Otherwise, your pet may very well munch on anything she can reach.

Be sure to ask your veterinarian for more information on bunnyproofing.

How To Set Up A Great Bunny Cage

When it comes to pet care, comfort is very much king. You’ll want to give your pet a little luxury bunny condo. A great cage is absolutely paramount here. While Floppy will need several hours of free time outside of her cage daily, she will still spend quite a bit of time inside her cage.

Here are a few tips on setting up your rabbit’s cage:

Bigger Is Better: One of the most common mistakes that people make is using a cage that is too small. Rabbits are naturally very active, and they need a bit of room. Your pet’s cage should be more like a one-bedroom than a studio. Make sure Floppy has plenty of space to stand up, hop around, stretch out, and play, without tripping over her things or touching the cage wall or side.

Avoid Wire Floors: Choose a cage with a solid floor. Wire floors don’t contain substrate. They also can cause serious paw and leg injuries. Plus. They aren’t very comfy, either!

Offer A Hidey Hole: Your pet’s cage is her house. Give her a little spot to retreat to, like a little pet tent or hide box.

Provide A Hay Rack: One of the basics of bunny care is providing plenty of grass hay. You may find a hay rack helps keep things neat. (Tip: If you’re including a litterbox, position the hayrack so that your pet has to jump into her box to eat from it. Rabbits like to eat while doing their business, so this can help with training.) 

You may also want to consider a litterbox, though this is optional. You’ll of course need to add a water bottle and a dish for pellets. 

Ask your vet for specific advice on cage setup.

Keeping A Bunny Entertained

Floppy is just as playful as Fluffy and Fido! Bunnies are naturally curious and inquisitive, and love to poke their cute noses into absolutely everything.

You’ll need to offer plenty of toys, including lots of chew toys. You can buy these, but you can also make them out of things like paper, cardboard, wood, and wicker. Look online for ideas, or try making something new!

Here are a few favorites:

• Hanging Toys
• Toy Balls
• Chew Toys
• Branches from safe fruit trees, such as apple trees. 
• Paper
• Obstacle Courses
• Box Castles
• Dig boxes

Just stick with safe items. Avoid anything small or sharp. Items covered in decorative substances, such as varnish, paint, glitter, and dye, are also unsafe, as are things with dangling ropes or strings.

Floppy loves to explore things. She’s also a big fan of jumping and hopping. Tunnels and mazes are also big hits. You can even combine the two and make a tunnel or maze that contains elements of an obstacle course. 

Playing With Your Bunny

Don’t be surprised if you realize that your cute pet actually really enjoys playing with you. Try different games. Some bunnies like ‘bowling’ type games. You can also do scavenger hunts, by hiding treats in certain spots.

Love

At the end of the day, pets really just want to feel loved and safe. Spend time with your little buddy every day, and just make sure that she feels loved and safe. You’ll know you’re on the right track if you start scoring binkies. Binkies are basically the bunny version of a happy dance. We probably don’t have to say how adorable they are! 

Schedule An Appointment At Our Meadowvale, ON Animal Clinic

Are you looking for a great vet that handles bunnies? Please feel free to contact us. As your Meadowvale, ON pet hospital, we are dedicated to offering your pet great care! 

What Makes Chinchillas Special?

Aside from the fact that chinchillas are very, very cute, we would probably point out their soft fur as a unique feature. Chinchilla coats are very dense. Each hair follicle holds about 60 to 80 hairs, on average, as opposed to the single one that people’s follicules have. That soft fur keeps them warm in their native habitat, the chilly Andes region of South America. It also serves as a sort of defense: if a predator grabs hold of the chinchilla, its fur will fall out in patches. (This is loosely similar to the way some reptiles will drop their tails if something grabs them.)

Basic Chinchilla Facts

Native to the arid, rocky Andes, chinchillas live in groups, known as herds, which would consist of anywhere from 14 to 100 chinchillas. These guys grow up to about 50 cm, on average, including those fluffy tails. They also live quite a while, especially in comparison to other small animals. Given proper care, they can live 10 to 20 years.

What Sort Of Habitat Do Chinchillas Need?

As with other small pets, making sure that your furry pal has a great habitat is crucial to their health and well-being. Chinchillas have some very specific requirements on this one.

• The absolute minimum cage size for chinchillas would be 1 meter x .5 meters x .5 meters However, we would recommend getting something larger. Your pets will spend the majority of their time in this cage, so it’s important to make it as fun and comfortable for them as possible.  
• Multi-level cages are always recommended for these guys, as they provide much more opportunity for jumping and climbing, which, as we mentioned above, are chinchillas’ favorite sports.
• Chinchilla habitats should always have solid floors. Wire floors will not contain substrate, and can also cause paw injuries.
• Temperature is very important. Chinchillas come from cold, dry regions, and do not do well in the heat. Do not put the cage in direct sunlight, or near a fireplace or heating duct. You don’t want them to get too cold, either! 
• For bedding, you can use paper or shavings. Avoid pine and cedar products, as the oils can cause respiratory issues. Corncob is also best avoided.
• Be sure to provide a bottle for your pet to get their water from. Bowls can be contaminated by bedding or droppings. Overheating is an issue with these guys, so when it’s hot out, you may want to keep a bottle in the freezer. That way, your pet will always have cold water as it melts.

How Do You Keep A Chinchilla Happy?

No matter how big or small your animal companion is, it’s important to keep them happy and content. Every pet has their own needs here. Cats like furniture, boxes, sunbeams, lap space, paper bags, catnip mice, while dogs enjoy chew toys, playtime, and exploration.

Chinchillas need lots of chew toys, as otherwise their teeth will get to be too long. You can buy these, but you can also make your own. Many of the DIY idea options you’ll find for bunnies, hamsters, and Guinea pigs will work. For instance, you can make your pet toy/treat kebabs. The tubes from toilet paper and paper towel rolls can be quite versatile. You can slice them up, then reassemble them into balls, or poke holes in them and poke branches in them. Just be careful with the glue.

Here are some other materials you can use:

• Plain Paper
• Cardboard
• Wooden Items
• Loofah
• Sea Grass
• Vine
• Bamboo
• Wood
• Lava Stones

Be sure to stick with safe items. Don’t give your pet anything small or sharp, or anything with rope or cords. Items covered in varnish, paint, or dye are also unsafe. Ask your Mississauga, ON vet for more information.

What Do You Feed A Chinchilla?

Chinchillas have quite specialized diets. They live on a lot of fibrous plants in the wild. 

Hay: Your pet will need lots of grass hay. You can offer Timothy hay, orchard grass, meadow hay, or botanical hay. Alfalfa can be offered as a treat, but can cause dental problems and/or digestive issues if fed too often. Be sure to keep your pet’s hay somewhere cool and dry, and keep an eye out for mold.

Pellets: You can offer your little buddy grass pellets for lunch and dinner. Just measure portions out carefully. It’s very, very easy to overfeed a small animal. Ask your vet for specifics, including product recommendations and serving sizes.

Treats: Now for the fun bit. Like all of our other patients, chinchillas love snacks. They actually are known for having a massive sweet tooth.

Here are some things you can offer:

• Dried fruits, such as apple, banana, or pineapple
• Raisins
• Cranberries
• Dried rose hips
• Fruit and berry branches, including blackberry, strawberry, and hibiscus
• Certain herbs, such as dandelion, rosemary, and parsley. Just don’t go overboard with sugary treats. 

Be sure to ask your Mississauga, ON vet for specific advice.

What Foods Are Unsafe For Chinchillas?

It’s also important to know what isn’t safe. Seeds, grains, or nuts are definitely out. You’ll also want to avoid yogurt drops. They are often sold as chinchilla treats, but they are very, very sugary. Other foods on the no-no list include citrus fruits, such as lemons and grapefruit; corn; chocolate; dairy products; and fruits with a high water content, such as watermelon. Ask your vet for more information. 

What Is Popcorning In Chinchillas?

We all know that cats purr when they’re happy, and dogs wag their tails. Chinchillas also have a thing. It’s called popcorning, and it’s super cute. As the name suggests, this basically entails ‘popping’ straight up … much like a popcorn kernel. 

Do Chinchillas Like to Play?

Chinchillas can be quite timid, but don’t let that fool you. They actually are quite playful in their own way. They love to climb and jump, and will appreciate having things like ladders and branches in their cages.

Why Do Chinchillas Need Dust Baths? 

Like all other pets, chinchillas need grooming. However, you should never get these guys wet. Their fur takes a long time to dry, and they can end up with fungal infections. You’ll need to give your pet dust baths to soak up oil and dirt. Only use dust that is made just for this, and remove your pet’s ‘tub’ after they are done. When it’s really hot out, keeping your chinchilla’s dust in the fridge can make these beauty sessions a little more refreshing for him. Ask your vet for more info on this.

What Are Signs Of Sickness In A Chinchilla? 

With chinchillas, as with any other pet you’ll need to watch for signs of illness. Chinchillas are considered an exotic pet, so you’ll want to find a great exotic animal vet. 

Here are some things to watch for:

• Anorexia
• Diarrhea
• Watery eyes
• Drooling
• Hunched posture
• Withdrawal
• Unusual behavior
• Lethargy
• Trouble breathing
• Constipation
• Shedding
• Weight loss
• Dehydration
• Pawing at mouth
• Poor coat
• Reduced feces production

Contact your exotic vet right away if you spot any of these. 

Make An Appointment At Your Mississauga, ON Animal Clinic

Do you need advice on chinchilla care? Please feel free to contact us anytime. As your Mississauga, ON pet hospital, we are here to help.